Mototaxi Junket 2012

The Mototaxi Junket was our 2012 adventure, in which we drove from one end of Peru to the other in a wobbly little open air taxi contraption.

It seemed like a good idea at the time.

We covered 1,250 miles on a three-wheeled sofa-bike, starting in Cusco and ending in the sleepy town of Piura, near the Ecuadoran border. Highlights: battling altitude sickness at 14,440 feet on the Occe Occe Pass in the Andes Mountains, crossing two deserts in blistering summer heat, seeing the truly magical Machu Picchu ruins, and driving along the stunning Pacific coastline of Peru for days on end. Along with fellow Americans and great friends Team Beer & a Handful of Dust, we crossed the finish line first out of 38 teams participating.

Route Recap

12th January 2012

The final tally on our trip from Cusco to Piura: 1250 miles covered in 9 days, all but one day(where we traveled by truck) with Don driving the mototaxi.

We left Cusco on Tuesday, instead of the original launch day of Sunday, due to mechanical issues. From Cusco we got to Abancay, a 200km run up and down steep mountain roads that was a tough introduction to the bike’s handling. We stayed overnight at the Hotel Turistica along with friends from Beer and a Handful of Dust, whose second mototaxi was in the shop for repairs. Wednesday we set off more or less south with all three mototaxis running. About midday, one of them gave up the ghost, and was towed back to Abancay. The remaining two moto teams forged ahead to Chalhuanca, a sleepy town about 160kms away.

There we, along with Paul, Chris, and Alex, stayed at the grander-than-it-sounds Plaza hotel, where Alex and I got in serious trouble with the locals for our beer drinking habits. Early next morning got started for the next destination, which proved to be our most difficult day on the road. Freezing rain, sleet, snow, and article blasts of wind met us as we crossed two big mountain passes that surpassed 14,500 feet. Enormous relief when we stopped in a tiny village for some life-affirming coffee and hot chocolate, along with some mate to help my sudden onset of altitude sickness. And then after the cold and rain, we descended into impenetrable fog as we got closer to Puquio, with about 15 feet of visibility, dwindling daylight, and sheer exhaustion. Found a really dismal hotel (how dismal?-no toilet seats!) and then miracles of miracles, found a wonderful restaurant with a kindly owner who served us cauldrons of Sopa Criolla to warm us up. Fled Puquio heading for the next morning when we were reunited along the road with James and Pagogh, who had to jettison their mototaxi back in Abancay, by trucking it to Cusco, flying to Lima, then renting a van and driving all night to catch up with us! Suddenly having a chase vehicle meant we could lighten the luggage load on the two remaining Motos.

Made good time into Nasca during which I was able to hone my new skill set in dealing with the police, what we came to call the “Big smiles, No Spanish” routine, and Alex referred to as my aggressive American friendliness, which sounds like a good thing! Even after 8 stops, not one bribe or fine was asked of us, not that I could have understood if they had! Nasca was amazing, and to make up for the dismal Hotel Josef in Puquio, James booked us in the luxe Casa Andina for the night, that even had air conditioning! A highlight was going out to see the Nasca lines, then a good nights sleep before heading onward towards Ica and the much anticipated Huancachina oasis, as recommended by Cristian and Kelly of Peru Road Trip, and where we were to meet up with them. Paradise! We got there early and spent the day in fabulous fun, including a dune buggy ride and sand boarding. Room was next to the disco, so not much sleep.

Next day, slept in, then took the Motos out to the highway with Cristian and Kelly to look for a truck, as we needed to get around the super-congested area of the Pan-Ameircan highway surrounding Lima. Success came when Jesus and his helper agreed to take our mighty Motos to Barranca, a bit less than 500 kms away. Don rode with the Motos, getting to practice his Spanish all the way. Spent the night in Barranca, which is like Myrtle Beach of Peru, before starting a monster day on the Motos wherein we covered 400kms in a single day, ending in the magical beach town of Huanchaca. James, travel agent extraordinaire, found us a suite which had balconies, fancy showers, and a view of the ocean and surf break across the street. A fine meal of ceviche and grilled fish capped a very long day of driving. Getting a late start the next day allowed us to time our arrival in Chiclayo, as the towns get sparser in the coastal desert found in the north of Peru.

Big excitement for Wednesday, our last on the road and crossing the Sechura Desert. We saw lots of small towns, a few memorable sights (what was that guy doing carrying a mattress on his back down the side of the road with a goat tied to his waist?) and got some cool pictures with our Irish flags flying in honor of Peter. Driving into Piura in a posse of local mototaxis was the perfect capper to this adventure, as the combined three teams of Beer and a handful of dust and Team, hereinafter known as Beer and a Handful of Chicken, were the first official arrivals at the finish line and a much-relieved Annelie to greet us and check in our beasties. Bittersweet to let go of our good moto, Bobby, as we had the remarkable distinction of having not a single breakdown after leaving Cusco. Beach time at Mancora until Saturday, when we return to Piura to meet the rest of the teams arriving for the big celebration.

Check out our photo book about the Mototaxi Junket here:

Courtesy of Chris Ray, our official video:Team Dixie Chickens Mototaxi Junket 2012

And another wonderful video from our travel companions:
Beer & A Handful of Dust Mototaxi Junket 2012

All our blog entries and updates from the road during the 2012 Mototaxi Junket can be found here: http://mototaxijunket12w.theadventurists.com/index.php?mode=teamwebsites&teamid=6528